Crossing the Iber: Kosovo's Hidden Identity by Brendan Buzzard

Conflicts and cultural divides in Kosovo.

Global Diary > Global Society Crossing the Iber: Kosovo's Hidden Identity
By Brendan Buzzard \| Monday, November 20, 2006

Amidst the division and memories of violence, a new sense of identity is trying to emerge in Mitrovica, Kosovo. Just as the Iber River marks a physical and emotional divide for its residents, any reconciliation must also bridge the cultural gap. Brendan Buzzard discusses the future of Mitrovica — a veritable ethnic case study.

even years after the war in Kosovo, signs of violence still linger. Old broken buildings and homes stand in idleness among bustling shops and cafés.

To the politicians, a population is best controlled by dwelling on difference rather than similarity.

International peacekeeping forces under the NATO-led mission to Kosovo meander through the streets on foot patrols and in armored vehicles. Amidst barbed wire coils police stand guard in front of the bridges over the Iber River that divides the town.

It is this river, more than any other sign in Mitrovica, Kosovo — and perhaps in Europe — that emphasizes the contrast. Ethnicity and history are characterized by the same physical divide as the recent wars in the Balkans.

Dividing lines

The Iber River passes through Mitrovica on its way from the mountains to the Black Sea. The river divides the people and the town and marks the boundary between the United Nations-administered territory of Kosovo and greater Serbia.

The north side of the river is dominated by the Orthodox cathedral situated on a hill top — and Serbian is the language most commonly spoken. The same telephone system, currency and automobile license plates used here exist in Serbia.

Taking sides

On the south side of town, the Albanian language fills the streets and cafés. The new Kosovo telephone system is in place and the brown and white turrets of mosques protrude into the skyline.

Amidst barbed wire coils, police stand guard in front of the bridges over the Iber River that divides Mitrovica.

This boundary is enhanced by the presence of a large NATO-led international peacekeeping police force known as the Kosovo Force (KFOR).

Just as the Iber River marks a physical and emotional divide between Serbs and Albanians for the residents of Mitrovica — with language, culture and politics separated by it — any reconciliation must be designed to cross this divide. Mitrovica is a localized case study of the greater Balkan region where ethnic, religious and historical differences are strikingly displayed.

Violent past

The recent memory of violence makes this divide all the more real, and the presence of international administrators — as well as the ongoing international dialogue on the future status of Kosovo — means that what comes out of the Mitrovica situation may determine the future of the Balkans.

Contrasts such as these on either side of the Iber are — for politicians — easy to manage. To them, a population is best controlled by dwelling on difference rather than similarity. Stark reality provides the basis for the simplification over which policy decisions are made, not the subtle and complex intricacies of human communities.

Change ahead

It is these subtle whispers, however, that will define the future. However, political refusal to listen submits the people to the personal will of leaders.

Mitrovica is a localized case study of the greater Balkan region where ethnic, religious and historical differences are strikingly displayed.

“This used to be the most beautiful river in Europe,” said Mitrovica resident Admir Salihu, as he gathered with other members of his work group in a shady clearing on the river's edge.

“We all have memories of violence, but we are trying to look forwards and not backwards.” Another man, boiling a pot of tea on a small gas stove, said, “Of all that has happened in Kosovo, Mitrovica is the worst.”

Working together

These words come from men who are engaged in a project to transcend the river and the past. In Mitrovica, 120 residents from both sides — of varied ethnic groups, languages and religions — are cleaning up the Iber together.

As part of the three-month Iber Riverbank Cleaning Project — funded by the United Nations Development Program — eight teams of local people are removing trash and rebuilding parks along the rivers edge.

Personal power

This is not the only example of multi-ethnic and trans-Iber cooperation.

Just as the Iber River marks a physical and emotional divide in Mitrovica, with language, culture and politics separated by it, any reconciliation must be designed to cross it.
Efforts have been occurring for some time in Mitrovica. The unique culture does not transcend the bleak reality of political and national division and goes unnoticed by policy makers.

The Iber Riverbank Cleaning Project, supported by both Albanian and Serbian NGO’s, is highlighting the popular will in an official capacity for the first time.

“Why don’t the politicians let us live our lives?” asked Hasime Tahiri, the coordinator of MUNDESIA, the Albanian NGO involved in implementing the cleaning project.

Defining the future

Looking closely at Mitrovica reveals two sides that are indeed associated with the Iber, though not defined by it. Unlike physical deception, or the definitions of ethnicity and history, these two sides resemble the bridges that cross the river.

The first is a communal identity of the people. The second is a false belief on the part of politicians.

Editor’s note: This is the first in a two-part series. You can read part two here.

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